Saturday, December 05, 2015
Los Angeles, Ca to Phoenix, Az - July 17th, 2015
I left Los Angeles early and headed north through the San Gabriel Mountains before turning east towards Phoenix. Made a stop in Yucca Valley at a favorite cafe, then continued across the desert above Joshua Tree National Forest. Crossed the border at Parker where the temperature was 108 degrees. Things cooled off quickly in the heavy rain I encountered east of Parker. Rolled through Wikenburg and dropped down into Phoenix.
Phoenix, Az to Pahrump, Nv - July 18th, 2015
Los Angeles to Bisbee, Az - July 25th, 2015
The air-conditioned nightmare
From early morning 'till late afternoon on the freeway. Holding steady at 75 mph, trying not to stress the air cooled calmness of my twin cylinders in the 110 degree heat. Tinted out SUV's fly past at 95 mph, in a big hury to get ahead. At roadside conveniences people rush in for fast food and rush back out. I'm in another, parallel, universe. By the time I've got the bike up on the stand, in my high heat slow motion, they're already leaving with a jumbo coke. South east of Tuscon I finally escape the freeway, and the heat, rolling up into the green hills, past Tombstone and into Bisbee as the sun sets.
The Copper Queen Hotel is a bit worn, a bit jaded, a bit down at heel, and just about right. The woman working the hotel bar is surly, the local native americans are drunk and proud, and the tourists are just drunk. A blues band is killin' it in the corner. The singer is a school teacher, with a voice that convinces she knows what she sings. The fiddle player has been drinking all night and just keeps getting better. The bass and guitar players are just trying to hold it all together.
From early morning 'till late afternoon on the freeway. Holding steady at 75 mph, trying not to stress the air cooled calmness of my twin cylinders in the 110 degree heat. Tinted out SUV's fly past at 95 mph, in a big hury to get ahead. At roadside conveniences people rush in for fast food and rush back out. I'm in another, parallel, universe. By the time I've got the bike up on the stand, in my high heat slow motion, they're already leaving with a jumbo coke. South east of Tuscon I finally escape the freeway, and the heat, rolling up into the green hills, past Tombstone and into Bisbee as the sun sets.
The Copper Queen Hotel is a bit worn, a bit jaded, a bit down at heel, and just about right. The woman working the hotel bar is surly, the local native americans are drunk and proud, and the tourists are just drunk. A blues band is killin' it in the corner. The singer is a school teacher, with a voice that convinces she knows what she sings. The fiddle player has been drinking all night and just keeps getting better. The bass and guitar players are just trying to hold it all together.
Thursday, December 03, 2015
Bisbee, Az to Banamichi, Mx - July 26th, 2015
THE SIERRA MADRE OF MEXICO
Crossed over in Naco. No trucks, no buses, nothing there but a hole in the fence and some polite mexican border guards. Wish I had the nerve to get a photo of the young uniformed girl, with the bright blue eyes and big gun, as she softly but sternly asked for my registration papers. That big fence, that is so carefully watched, keeps the bad stuff out, and it keeps the good stuff out too. The air-conditioned side of the fence could use some of the warmth from the Mexican side.
The road to Banamichi is narrow and twisting. Bushes crowd in from the sides framing views of mountains and valleys. It crosses multiple streams and rivers, some footpeg deep and rocky, some muddy.
Tom and Lynn's Los Arcos Hotel in Banamichi is a worthy destination. Good food, good conversation and a good nights rest.
Hotel Los Arcos |
Banamichi to Alamos - July 27th, 2015
The road from Hotel Los Arcos to Hermosillo is beautiful. It was in decent shape with just one muddy vado. The highway from Hermosillo to Navajoa was mostly uneventful. As usual I passed a few sun-burnt men slowly walking north with a small bag and a big jug of water. Navajoa to Almos is an excellent ride as the road climbs into the mountains. I stayed at the Casa De Los Tesoros Hotel, next time I'm in town I'll cosider staying at Los Portales Hotel, lots of charm and run by the Mexican wife of one of the first Americans to come to Alamos.
Departing Hotel Los Arcos |
Vado |
Los Portales Hotel |
Los Portales Hotel |
Los Portales Hotel |
Alamos |
Casa De Los Tesoros Hotel |
Casa De Los Tesoros Hotel |
Alamos to Mazatlan - July 28th, 2015
A long, hot, ride made arriving at the Hotel Melville all the more delicious. The Malicon was crowded with college students and families. It feels like a salt water sauna, even at night. Plaza Machado is busy with tourists and locals strolling. Old ladies comming down from upstairs apartments to walk poodles. Lonely guitarists looking for someone to serenade, and people eating in front of the many restaurants.
Breakfast in Alamos |
Hotel Melville |
Hotel Melville |
Plaza Machado |
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