Basaseachic to Creel
Wednesday July 9th, 2014

In the morning the pine forests of Basaseachic were shrouded in mist as the silver miners raced to work, creating new pot holes. I climbed higher on the twisty road dodging rocks washed off the hills by yesterdays rain. Avoiding damp cows with their calves guarded by big bulls threatening to charge.

I arrived in Creel after only a few hours ride. While lost, in this tiny town, I stopped at "La Troje de Adobe" cafe and hostal to ask directions. They suggested I stay, so I did. Angelico an Memo are the owners and builders of the beautiful adobe building.

Basaseachic

La Troje de Adobe hostal, Creel

Memo playing guitar in the hostal cafe

Creel
Thursday July 10th, 2014

Woke up at the hostal La Troje de Adobe as the sun was breaking through the mist. Angelico and Memo made a delicious breakfast. Awake and fortified I headed out into the countryside.

View from hostal window of train arriving in Creel

Downtown Creel

Tarahumara lands

Ancient Jesuit church of San Ignacio

Passing the farms and log houses of the indigenous Tarahumara, I headed up into the mountains towards "Baronca Cobre", Copper Canyon. I had a brief impromptu celebration on the side of the road as the bike turned over 100,000 miles.

GPS sees no road here

Keep on truckin'

Copper Canyon in the pouring rain

Creel to Parral
Friday, July 11th, 2014

"What were your dreams?" Memo asks, explaining that it is the traditional Tarahumara greeting.

The road from Creel climbs up into the canyons. Occasional log houses, small fields of maze tilled by horse drawn plows, women and girls in long bright skirts and shawls. Pine trees scenting the cool air.

The Hotel Acosta, Parral

Parral

Lots of bikers for Pancho Villa Parade

Pancho Villa

Pancho Villa dead

Parral to Gomez Palacio
Saturday July 12th, 2014

The road to Durango

I left Parral early and rode south toward Durango on the broad red line I saw on my map. The sky threatened rain and the highway turned to a dirt construction site, then some pavement. It started to rain hard. The next highway improvement was 10km of slick mud. I dumped the bike three times in the first kilometer. Each time, a guy in the truck behind me got out to help me pick it up. For a while he was walking behind me holding the rack as we both tried to walk the bike forward. Cars and trucks began to get stuck. Everyone turned around and headed back north. I cut over to Gomez Palacio on a great narrow road through the desert.

Still looks dry but that bus up ahead is stuck

Clay dust + water = zero traction!

I learned later that Hwy 23 connects through
from El Zape to Canutillto

Gomez Palacio to Zacatecas
Sunday July 13th, 2014

Autopista and lots of straight road, all paved, between Gomez Palacio and Zacatecas. Arrived before the rain started and in time to clean yesterday's mud off my boots.

Terrasse Hotel Zacatecas

View from the terrace

Aimless in Zacatecas
Monday July 14th, 2014

Santa Nino de Atocha, Plateros
Tuesday July 15th, 2014

Rode an hour north of Zacatecas to the pilgramidge church of Plateros. Site of a 16th century silver mine and a miracle working statue of Santo Nino de Atocha. Here the colonnade and part of an interior courtyard are covered with paintings depicting some misfortune or other, and asking for help. In each painting the Nino de Atocha is usually hovering nearby. Lots of food stalls and milagro sellers surround the church.